Greens and Beans
The cold is settling in for the season, and the hype of the holidays subsides. In a city where even in summertime a blade of grass can be scarce, midwinter can feel even more like an interminable landscape of gray. There are of course, the usual cold weather coping mechanisms like staying indoors and watching Julie and Julia, which inspires you to yet again, try to make the perfect boeuf bourguignon. Or, topping a cup of hot chocolate with a gratuitous amount of homemade whipped cream.
However, it’s right around now when we find ourselves yearning for something… green. My favorite hibernation dish is just the verdant dose of warmth you need to get you though your annual seasonal affective disorder. The lesser known of Italian-American comfort foods- Greens and Beans. A stew-like dish of cannellini beans, escarole, and meat sprinkled with pecorino. It’s a dish that humbly shows its immigrant ancestry by being both inexpensive and plentiful.
As I began to piece together the origins of my own recipe, I was reminded of a close cousin from a neighboring city… If you’re a western NY gal like me, you might be familiar with a dish called “Utica Greens.” Utica- a tiny upstate city- who boasts one of the only practically untouched New York Central rail stations- brings us hits like “Tomato Pie” (A thick crust “pizza” whose chief novelty lies in a sweet sauce that becomes a topping for cheesy bread- heaving tried it myself, I still don’t understand the folkloric obsession…) and “Chicken Riggies” (floppy over-cooked rigatoni with a tomato cream sauce- a fattening obsession universally understandable.)
However, far more than any of the other silly girls, “Utica Greens” are the prime specialty of the locale, making their appearance on menus throughout the region. As you can imagine, many variations of the dish exist, but her star features are: stewed escarole in light broth, pickled cherry peppers, cheese and prosciutto- sometimes topped with bread crumbs and baked in a gratin dish. Indeed a triumph! And certainly not to be missed if you find yourself needing to make a pit stop on your journey up north.
The proper Greens and Beans first entered my consciousness during my time at a family owned restaurant called “Domenico’s Ristorante- A Taste of Sicily” They made an extra buttery version of the dish with their famous homemade gnocchi. It was there I learned the most important lesson- clean your escarole thoroughly… as one night a manager was hurriedly called over by a guest who looked as if she’d seen a ghost. She explained that, about half way though her greens and beans she’d encountered something tough, and quickly expelled it onto a plate. It was then horrifyingly revealed that, without question, she had partially consumed the better part of a very large grasshopper…
The recipe I’ve created is a quick and easy Western New York infused version of this charming Italian peasant dish. It has components of both Utica Greens and the Domienico’s classic. This dish will surely give you the the shot of serotonin necessary during these dreary months. Even better, for us girlies on a budget, it is a cost effective way to feed ourselves after blowing our wad on Christmas gifts and parties.
Cover the bottom of a large heavy pan generously with olive oil and a four tbs butter over medium-high heat. Fry one pound of sweet or spicy Italian sausage until deeply browned and caramelized, breaking it up with your spoon as you go. Using a slotted spoon, transfer sausage to a bowl, leaving the drippings in the pot. Reduce heat to medium; add one onion roughly chopped and sauté until translucent and soft. Mince three to four cloves of garlic add and cook for one minute then add to this a pinch of crushed red pepper. Have ready- cleaned and roughly chopped escarole (this can get very sandy so wash it twice at least) and sauté until wilted.Then, add one glass of dry white wine and simmer for another minute or two. Then add two four cups of stock, add back in the sausage and simmer for twenty or so minutes to blend flavors. Finally, drain and rinse two cans of white cannellini beans, add to the pot and cook another 10 minutes or so. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a large bowl and top with grated Pecorino Romano.
This dish is incredibly versatile and can be made with many variations based on what is available or on hand. For example, kale, chard, or any other dark leafy green can be substituted for, or added to the escarole. You can even double up on the greens if you’d like more. The same applies for the beans, add as much as you like. Gnocchi or other pasta could be added to fill it out. Just adjust the stock amount for your desired consistency. If you’d like it a little spicier, add in place of the crushed red, two or three picked cheery peppers.
Since just one recipe makes enough to feed you and your entire extended family, it’s also the perfect “meal prep” for a long week ahead.